Dancing Ledge

I had an invite from a friend to go and trad climb together in Swanage. I had already partaken in a couple of trad sessions elsewhere and I was itching to sink my fingers into some more unbolted rock. So Dancing Ledge was the chosen crag.

As you drive towards the Swanage coast you are met with the ominous vestige of Corfe Castle. A beacon of past times looming over the countryside and coast line. As if taken straight from Arthurian times… a wondrous vision that encapsulated the imagination, picture dragons circling the parameter and wizards lurking within the crumbling walls. Further up the road, continuing towards the dancing destination, you drive through a quaint village, pubs marking each street corner and an assortment of cute shops. Next you come to an off road that takes you up a narrow, bumpy track and into Spyway National Trust Car park.

A scatter of branded vans dot around the car park. Each unloading an abundance of wetsuits, buoyancy aids and harnesses. Without exception the branded individuals give their best “Hi guys how are we doing!” to the folks in their charge.

We began our short journey towards the crag. If you mention Dancing Ledge to people who have frequented there once or twice they will ask the same question “Ohh that place with the MASSIVE hill” and they would be undoubtedly correct. The view from the top of the hill is beautiful and an outstanding picture of natural beauty. Creeping down the hill is weary on anyone's knees, no matter how young or spritely you think you are. Each step brings a slight creek from the weight of the ropes and trad gear resting on the meniscus until you reach the flats of the upper ledge.

On Approach towards the lower ledge it wouldn't be uncommon to see the rest of the instructor cohort setting up static lines along the upper lip ready for a band of keen beans. Especially on weekends. The standard scramble down onto the lower ledge is a bit of a punt, it ends up in clutching at rocks and small jibs for your feet, hauling yourself towards anything grabbable and jumping the rest of the way.

The view out across the sea is something magical, the rocks tower on adjacent sides of the cove leaving you feel rather small. As the tide retires back towards the vastness the tidal pool is revealed, a perfect looking glass.

To the far left side of the lower ledge (As you look back towards land) there is a cave formation. Look down and you will see a deep blue swirling lagoon. The water torrents against the back of the cave with an audible slap and floods back out again filling the narrow passageways once more. An otherworldly location to explore and adventure whether on ropes, in wetsuits or on foot.